ID :OMG H2 hotend kit

  1. 24v DC IN  24°  P≈60w
  2. (R:10+-1Ω)
  3. Temperature sensor: NTC100K and PT100 PT1000a
  4. Nozzle Compatible :E3D V5 V6
  5. H2 hotend weight: 70g
  6. Recommended temperature Max: 300°C
  7. Installation: M3 thread hole distance 14-17mm

OMG H2 prt file format download

STEP 1

STEP 1

STEP 2

STEP 3 Put in the spring

STEP 4 Link the hot end to the radiator

STEP 5 Tighten 2 M3 top screws

STEP 6 Insert Teflon tube

Confirm that the Teflon tube passes through the spring

5 replies
    • MY3D TEAM
      MY3D TEAM says:

      Hi Cyril

      P=UI=U²/R=I²R
      P is the power resistor,
      U is the input voltage, support 12-24v
      I is the current through the resistor,
      R is the resistance value of the resistor.
      24°C temperature measuring resistance:(R:10+-1Ω)

      Nozzle Compatible :E3D V5 V6 MK8

      The temperature of the R value increases and becomes larger, and the P power becomes smaller.
      The core heated MCH ceramic ring supports a 500°C temperature rise.

      Because the cooling end Teflon material supports up to 280 ℃
      At the same time, the temperature measurement thermistor is NTC100K and supports 320°C

      Recommended operating temperature does not exceed 300°C

      The high temperature version H2-RPO hot end will be sold later
      Use PT100 for temperature measurement
      Support MAX 500℃

      Sincerely
      MY3D Team

      Reply
  1. Claude
    Claude says:

    Hello,

    I’ve just received my H2 hotend. I installed on my Anycubic Mega S to experiment. The first thing I did was a PID autotune starting at room temperature (24C). Once it was done, I changed the values (M301) and saved (M500). The I started a new print with preheating the H2 but had an error for taking too long to reach the temperature. I did a second PID and the values were quite different. Changed and saved a second time. Preheated again (210C, PLA), took longer than normal but finally reached the 210C, did a small printed and all was fine (all of this through Octoprint).

    An hour later, preheated again, this time directly through the printer and twice, had the error of not reaching the temp fast enough. Just did a new PID ( Hotend PID: M301 P20.15 I3.84 D26.41). Again, it seems to take a long time to reach 210C compared to my normal heater cartridge (40W, 24V).

    I made no changes to the firmware.

    Are you able to provide any guidance on what I am not doing correctly?

    Thank you in advance,

    Claude

    Reply
  2. Claude
    Claude says:

    Hello,

    I’ve just received my brand new H2 hotend.

    Installed on my Anycubic Mega S (Trigorilla v1.1) to experiment. Added a standard 30×30 fan on the mount. The heater and thermistor connectors are plugged in the Anycubics hotend pcb board.

    I made no changes to the Marlin firmware.

    Through Octoprint, did the PID autotune (M303 E0 C15 S210) at room temperature of 22C. At first, till about 150C, the temperature shoots up almost vertically. Then, the rate decreases significantly before it reaches the +/- 210C to begin the 15 cycles. I loaded (M301) and saved (M500) the results.

    I preheated the hotend to begin a small test prints. It seems to take a long time to heat. But, I get the alarm/error that the hotend took too long to reach its temperature.

    I reboot the printer, check the EEPROM PID values, and try again. I do notice the same heating pattern or heating very quickly at first, then for the last 70C or so, is taking a long time to reach the 201C, least compared to my standard 24v-40W generic cartridge. No matter, again, I get the error.

    I repeat the PID tuning. I get completely different PID numbers. I input these new ones. Same heating pattern but no alarm/error. I begin the small test print but now get a filament jam in the heating “block”.

    Reboot all over again, and again I get the same heating too slow alarm/error.

    Can you help me? Can you tell me what I am doing incorrectly? Should the firmware be modified?

    I am an intermediate user – able to make some change to firmware, rebuilt printers but I’m not an electrical engineer or a Marlin expert at all.

    Sorry for the long text but I wanted to give you some context around the issue.

    Thank you in advance,

    Claude

    Reply
    • MY3D TEAM
      MY3D TEAM says:

      Claude
      Because of the material of the hot end and the position of the thermistor.
      PID usually needs to be adjusted
      Please try to modify the PID value as follows: Test
      >DEFAULT_ Kp 210.75 # –default
      >DEFAULT_ Ki 35.125 # –default
      >DEFAULT_ Kd 316.126 # –default
      Our motherboard uses Malin firmware, 24V power supply
      220 ℃ as the target
      Temperature fluctuation+- 1 ℃ during actual 3D printing
      The cooling fan at the hot end needs to be turned on when printing
      The cooling fan of the model during the test is 3010 * 2pcs
      We are sorting out more information about PID.
      Thank you for your feedback.

      Reply

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